Not sure where the “blame” falls (if you can call it blame?) or if I simply misunderstood what the trail had to offer. It is advertised as the premier backpacking location in all of Hawaii, and I’ve seen it in multiple magazines. I guess, based on my experience, I assumed it would be similar to those other “premier” backpacking locations.

Based on the permitting process, and the designation of official campsites, I also assumed that preservation was somewhat important. Although, it is obvious that there is little to “preserve” that hasn’t been changed by the hand of man over the last two centuries. The terraces, non-native plants, feral animals, etc… Wilderness is a stretch, but the amount of trash was still disappointing.

By the way, I discussed the helicopter issues with folks I met in Kauai, and apparently there have been landings near the head of the valley, where passengers can jump out and take pictures of the waterfall, then get back in the aircraft.

Thanks for the info on the FAA. I’ll be sure to call them. I couldn’t get identifying information on the aircraft, but I know the low-flying ones tended to be Blue Hawaii? and the one that landed and buzzed us in the valley was Inter-Island, based on the paint jobs on the aircraft, and seeing commercials and brochures while in Kauai. Unfortunately, didn’t have my camera available to photograph them.

I was just there in August, and I still don’t find it “trashed.” There is a large pile of trash in the bushes by the trail not far from the ranger shack at the beach, but I thought it was a collection point. And maybe the helicopter was hauling it away. Otherwise, I don’t recall any glaring trash or litter problems, except for a few hidden and perhaps abandoned camps here and there. Hanakapiai was trashed around the composting toilet, and Hanakoa shelters can get muddy and people leave damaged gear there. But outside those points, the biggest problem is the lack of trail maintenance, in my opinion.

I’ve responded more in depth about the helicopter landings in response to your comment on the post: great-hikes.com/blog/busted (sorry, not a live link, you need to copy-paste it into your location bar).

Now the helicopter flyover at Red Hill does sound very illegal. Tour copters must stay 1500 feet above trails and roads. If you have identifying information about the craft, as well as an accurate time of the incident, you can report it to the FAA in Honolulu. The number I had for them is: 808-837-8300.

Finally, I can see how you can be disappointed in Kalalau if you were looking for a wilderness experience. Yes, it is far from the road and far off the beaten path, but I don’t usually see Kalalau advertised as wilderness. It is nothing more than a state park, accessible only by trail but with the issue of “outlaws” as you noted. You do go through some nature preserves on the way there, but at the beach and in the valley, there is no mandate to preserve the natural state. And so camps aren’t eradicated, residency isn’t strictly discouraged, and the campground sites are rather well developed with handmade walls, etc.

Calling it trashed in national magazine, and leaving the trail unmaintained are however great ways to limit the influx of park users. There is a little bit of provincialism at work here, but you do have to realize that Hawaii has different attitudes towards the situation there than might be enforced in a National Park.

of course, if you want to hang with the “locals” out there, and that is your thing, it probably is shangri-la. but for those looking for peace, quiet, and a wilderness experience, this is not the place.

beautiful? absolutely. but considering national geographic’s readership and demographics, this is hardly a place that would appeal to anyone of any wilderness ethic.

and this doesn’t mention the ridiculous permit and resource management, or the unbelievable helicopter pilots. we had a helicopter land on the beach TWICE in our 4 night stay. twice! are you serious? and another blue helicopter buzz us at 75 feet off the ground on top of red hill.

that said, i did find the “outlaws” to go out of their way to be hospitable, generous, and welcoming. it was not uncommon to be given fruit, or directions to a tree, location, etc…