Kauai Garden Teas

I’ve mentioned that we like to do the tourist thing every now and then, and that includes stopping for some Lappert’s ice cream in Koloa when we come back from the beach in Poipu. The last few times we’ve gone, our 2-year old daughter wanted to wander around the shops nearby—they have so many colorful things to look at and some she can touch.

I forgot the name of the first shop, the one with clothes and world crafts, but the second shop to the left is Island Soap and Candleworks. While we made a few frivolous purchases there, at least the products are made on Kauai (I’ll give them a link because I like their solar electricity initiative, too). My wife is a green tea conaisseur, so one of the items we bought was a sachet of Kauai Garden Tea, a product we had never seen before.

At first glance, we thought it was tea grown on Kauai and were eager to try this new agricultural venture. But then I had a doubt because I’ve never heard of anyone growing tea, at least nobody credible. Upon rereading, the wording on the package only implies that the herbs blended with the tea were grown on Kauai. So then we were a bit skeptical and feeling misled.

But it turns out that the tea is quite good. The green tea that they use is not quite consistent with the price (about $20 if I remember right), but it was very drinkable. The blend of lemongrass and lavender gave this particular blend a hint of Earl Grey, which also has a citrus flavor from the bergamot. I liked the tea more than my wife, both because I like herb teas and she is more of green tea purist, but she admitted it had a pleasant, natural taste and the flavors went well with the green tea.

In the end, only the price is a bit steep (could not resist that pun), but maybe because we bought it in a tourist shop. There was a pineapple shaped tea ball that came with it, so that little gift made it seem worthwhile in the end. Unless we can find it retail somewhere else, we probably won’t buy it again for ourselves (how many tea balls can one use). However, we’ll definitely buy more as gifts for our tea-loving friends and family (if you’re reading and would prefer chocolate covered macademias again, just let me know :-).

They don’t have a website or any contact information, so if anyone knows how to reach the producers, let me know in the comments.

Garmin GPSmap 60CS

First of all, happy leap-day to everyone!

Being somewhat of a purist who could always find his way with maps and careful observation of the terrain, I was at first reluctant to own and use a GPS. But ever since my wife gave it to me one Christmas, I’ve become an amateur cartographer. I carry it on most of my hikes and keep it turned on. I hardly ever need it to find my way (knock on wood), but I do check it now and then to see the time and distance covered. When I get home, I download the tracks to my computer and transfer them to Google Earth so I can put them in perspective.

The model I have is a Garmin GPSmap 60CS, pictured above on the boardwalk through the Alakai swamp. I made the photo a bit larger than usual so that the unit is exactly life-size on my screen.

I have owned it for at least 4 years now, and it is at least two generations old. I think it cost around $450 new, plus $100 for the digital topo maps that cover the entire US. Newer models such as the GPSmap 60CSx are still in the same price range, but they have improved reception that almost never loses satellites under tree cover. And the latest generation that just came out has satellite imagery instead of vector-based maps. You can read all about the latest models (and their recalls) on a site I found called GPS Tracklog, but I want to sing the praises of my sturdy old GPS.

GPS-wise, the unit has performed as expected. It takes a minute or two to find your location when you turn it one, more if you don’t have a clear view of the sky. That feels a bit long, but that’s normal for hand-held GPS, at least when this model came out. I chose the model with the protruding antenna because it gets better reception than the sleeker models with an internal one. Sure enough, my model works in the forest, and only under very dense canopy or in a deep canyon does it lose the satellite signal. It works inside the car fairly well, but you can’t put it in your pack, so when I’m hiking I clip mine to my shoulder strap with a cell-phone case.

Even in sunlight, the screen is easy to see, the LCD is bright, the graphics are clear, and there is a backlight for use in the dark. The controls work well, I find it easy and staightforward to use, no annoying quirk that erases my data or anything. It gets about 30 hours of running time from 2 AA alkaline batteries, about 20 from the rechargeables I use. My only pet peeve is that with a screen-blanking function, that time could easily have been extended. Functionality-wise, it is a higher-end model and has all the bells and whistles:

• It holds hours of tracks and hundreds of waypoints, all useful for making my maps. After overnight hikes, I do have to save the active track because the track log does fill up. But you still see on the screen everywhere you’ve been until you download the data and erase it from the unit. I can also upload old tracks from my computer and follow them again.
• It gives you average speed, moving speed, distance, moving time, total time, and many more, even the time of day. I sometimes use it just to go jogging, so I can see how fast I’m running.
• It computes altitude with an internal barometer and from the GPS signal, and graphs the measurement over time or distance.
• It computes the sunrise and sunset times for the current location, as well as phases of the moon and its location in the sky. This can be really handy if you’re late on a hike, so you can know when it gets dark and whether you’ll have any moonlight.
• There is a digital compass, but I never use it. When you turn it on, not only does it tell you your bearing, but it also shows the map with north up, no matter which way you turn the screen.
• There are also geocaching features but I never use them. Since geocaching has gotten more popular over time, I would assume that all newer units have this too.
• It also has some route-finding capabilities and turn-by-turn directions so you can use it like the dash-mounted GPS in your car. I’ve never used this either, so I don’t know how good it is.

The unit comes with base maps for the whole US, but that only includes major roads and landforms. In order to be useful for hiking, you need to buy the topo maps that Garmin sells for the unit (you can use the viewer at that link to see the maps). Unfortunately these are only 1:100,000 scale, so there is nowhere near the detail of the USGS maps. Usually, you can still see most topographic features, but you do have to be careful if you’re in a small gully because it may not show up. That’s when you should be relying on your sense of direction anyhow, and since we don’t have white-out conditions on Kauai, that’s usually feasible.

I think the maps are the weakest part of the GPS, not just mine but any brand. I asked Garmin if they will have higher resolution maps, and they said the USGS has only published 1:24,000 scale vector maps for select areas, such as some National Parks. It looks like Garmin does have updated maps called Topo US 2008. They’re still 1:100,000 scale but seem to add a degree of hill-shading to help see the terrain, although it again doesn’t help when you need help finding the right ridge. That website shows there is no coverage of Kauai and the Big Island on those maps, although the viewer they provided did let me zoom in all the way to the highest resolution on Kauai. I’m waiting to see how the raster-based units work (and how much they cost), because with those you can theortically upload the 1:24,000 USGS topo maps from software such as National Geographic’s TOPO! series.

In terms of pure ruggedness, this model is really worth it. Of course, you can’t know that until you take it out and use it, but this one has been good to me, eventhough I’ve mistreated it a bit. You can see a scratch on the screen above, and some covering has rubbed off the buttons, but it hasn’t affected the waterproofness. I once dropped the unit in Wai’alae stream deep in Waimea canyon and thought I lost it. It slipped out of the case, and bounced off a rock just above a small cascade. I searched around under water, above and below the cascade, and found it about 10 minutes later laying on the stream-bed about 15 feet downstream

It was still on and functioning when I pulled it out, but it had lost reception under 2 feet of water. Ever since then, I added a wrist strap from a camera to tie the unit to my backpack. Before the dip in the stream, it once slipped out of it’s case while I was trimming some guava trees along a trail, and I hit it with the machete. It has a scar on the back, but again I’m fortunate it stayed waterproof. However, the time I forgot it on top of the car, it flew off at 40mph and tore the rubber casing when it hit the pavement. I assume it’s no longer waterproof, but after that, I was happy it worked at all.

Secret of the Crystal Skulls

I’ve seen and read much more fiction and writing in general about Kauai recently, and about Kalalau specifically, so I’ve been wanting to blog about it. I don’t know if I just have a larger circle of aquaintances through which books and ideas can reach me, but it just seems that there are more people publishing about Kauai.

The first one I’ll present today is a screenplay for a movie to be called Secret of the Crystal Skulls, by Nadya Wynd, a Kauai resident. The plot unfolds on Kauai mostly, with the Na Pali coast as a backdrop and the Kalalau trail itself playing a major role.

From the screenplay synopsis:

A life-sized crystal skull with mysterious powers is being cared for by the Menehune, magical little people living on the island of Kauai. A diverse group of individuals is inexplicably drawn to the cave where the skull sits on an altar, magnificently reflecting light in all directions from a skylight above.

Mat, a jaded fifteen-year-old from the San Fernando Valley, is sent on an outward-bound hiking trip of the stunningly beautiful Na Pali Coast of Kauai, while his mother honeymoons with husband #3 at the Hyatt. […] Kilo, Mat’s Kahuna guide, introduces him to Huna (Hawaiian spirituality), and shows him an ancient fishpond purportedly constructed by the Menehune. Mat is intrigued, but the mood is broken by the arrival of his fellow hikers, preppies flashing their brand-name equipment, GPS locators, and attitude. They head out as Mat befriends Jill, an ecology-minded seventeen year-old who appreciates the beauty of Hawaii and its mythology. […]

[A] tropical storm becomes a hurricane, takes an abrupt turn, and heads directly for Kauai. The hurricane turns the teenagers’ hike into a life-threatening event until a rescue helicopter comes to their aide. Only able to carry five, Mat and Jill volunteer to wait with Kilo for the helicopter’s return. When Kilo is seriously injured, Mat and Jill must seek help from the Menehune.

I’m always on the lookout for stories about hiking on Kauai, and what could be better than a movie that shows how hiking and being in nature can lead to personal transformation. Granted, the characters are more transformed by their encounters with Menehune, depicted as hobbit-like people with supernatural powers, and with the crystal skulls. Yet it is the hiking and the mystical feelings of Kalalau that lead them to the Menehune, and better yet, it’s their attitude towards hiking and being in nature that makes them worthy of transformation.

Unfortunately, the script is not published yet, rather the author is looking for producers and financial backing. I heard about this screenplay because my wife is a web designer and she made the entire website for the author. So eventhough I’m helping her promote the website, the subject matter fits perfectly into the material I like to cover on this blog. As an insider of sorts, I got to read the script, and I think I can share non-critical tidbits such as the one above.

There are also some hiking and Kaua’i-related tidbits to glean on the website. First, the author has some personal anectdotes about living on Kauai, including about Hurricane Iniki in 1992, and a hurricane figures prominently in the story-line. She also talks about a flood in Anahola that killed 4 people in 1991. I had never heard of this, and I immediately thought of the Kaloko disaster. Apparently, flooding is much more deadly on Kauai than hurricanes–I suppose that there is much more warning and preparation in the case of a hurricane.

I also learned a lot about the Hawaii tax credit that the state grants to film productions. There used to be more filming on Kauai (Raiders of the Lost Ark, Jurassic Park, etc.) but cheaper locations in the tropics such as Central America have taken much of the business. To remain competitive for Hollywood productions, Hawaii offers the tax incentive of up to 20% of production costs, which is significant.

Then, I found a contemporary song about Na Pali and Kalalau, at the bottom of this page. It’s not a Hawaiian tune, but it does have a nice melody and a pretty voice.

Last but not least, there is a neat photo gallery with some previously-unpublished images of the Na Pali coast and Kalalau. I know the photos are unpublished because I contributed most of them to the website myself, and they’re quite nice if I may say so.

I think it’s exciting that people are writing movies set on Kauai, where Kauai itself and its legends play a pivotal role. I also think it’s encouraging that everyday people on Kauai are becoming authors and sharing their vision of the island in a literary or visual way. If you’re interested in learning more around the Secret of the Crystal Skulls, follow the author’s blog about the various topics that are woven into the screen-play.

An Eclectic Sunrise

It’s been a while since I posted a sunrise picture, but I’m looking for a short and easy post today.

We’ve been having a bit of nice Kona weather again. Yesterday was sunny but not hot, and the mountains were spectacularly clear most of the day. With no clouds, the night was almost chilly under a waning moon . And this morning, a few cirrus high clouds were spectacularly lit by the morning sun:

The reason I called this an “eclectic sunrise” is because a relatively new blog called Kaua’i Eclectic describes the same sunrise much more beautifully than I:

I’ve been wanting to mention this blog, but I didn’t get around to adding it to the blogroll until now. It’s written by Joan Conrow, whom I do not know personally, but the story of her blog is well known. She was a Kaua’i correspondent for the Honolulu Advertiser newspaper, including recent ferry news, until she was fired for voicing her personal anti-ferry opinions on her blog. So if you’re a ferry supporter, her writing will surely rub you the wrong way.

However, if you look beyond the politics, she is a keen observer of both mother nature and human nature. She usually writes about her morning walks and the people she meets, which lead her to expose some facet of Kaua’i or lesson she has learned from living here. But she does write a political blog, and so she keenly applies the lesson to the political target du jour.

If you shun the political reading, she has also written many articles for other Hawaiian publications such as the Honolulu Weekly (a free newspaper on Oahu) and the local airline magazines. From her descriptions of places and people, you can tell she is a spiritual person. Fortunately, her writing remains poetic, lyrical maybe, but rarely preachy. For example, she has an article about the mist in Koke’e and the Hindu temple on the Wailua river. On the right-hand side of her blog, she lists her own favorite pieces, including some about the Hawaiian sovereignty movement.

And by the way, as I write this in the evening, it is pouring down rain. Update: it rained over 5 inches last night, more in one night than any previous whole month since the March 2006 deluge. And it’s raining hard again this morning.

Free Wi-Fi

Update: Thanks for the comments, I’ve added those locations to my list below. It seems like old town Kapaa is the newest surf spot. Plus, now I’ve done some more research, though only on the web not in person.

In an email, Tara asks:

i am new to the island and love your blog. i’m a writer searching for cafes or coffee shops w/free internet on the island; my old stomping ground was the cow’s end in venice, ca and i miss it. do you have any pointers?

I have been thinking this would make a good post topic, but I wanted to do more research before writing. I’m learning that’s not the way blogging works, so I’ll just give you what I have for now:

• The Small Town Coffee Co. across from the library in Kapaa has free wi-fi, I just confirmed that on their website. They’re in a quaint location, and even with no parking to speak of, they are always busy, so they must be doing something right. I’m not going to do a full review, but the coffee’s good, their barista is a two-time barista contest winner. The inside is a bit rustic, but I prefer that to any shiny new chain store, and it reminds me of one of my favorite cafés, Simple Pleasures Café in the outer Richmond, SF.
• Shawn says Java Kai, the other independent coffee shop in old town Kapaa, has it and so does their other shop in Hanalei.
• Jonathan reveals that Blossoming Lotus, also at the light in old town Kapaa has a “freely accessible signal,” but since I actually don’t have a laptop or an iPhone, I don’t know if that’s equivalent.
• Kukui Grove mall outside of Lihue has signs throughout their interior walkways and food court that wi-fi is available and free.

In the comments Shawn also links to a website with wifi-search, both free and for pay. There are some discrepancies in the data (and it is likely to be outdated quickly), but it gives a few more free ones:

• The Shack restaurant, now Polynesia Café but I don’t know if they kept the wi-fi.
• Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, next to Foodland in Waipouli.
• Aloha Beach Hotel (was Resort) in Wailua.
• Starbucks in Kukui Grove (but the one in Borders nearby and the one in Kapaa are for-pay).
• Grinds Café (more of a diner than a café) in ‘Ele’ele.
• Waimea Brewing Company (micro-review: good beer too) and Waimea Plantation Cottages

You can’t search the whole island, so here are all cities/zip codes with results: Waimea, ‘Ele’ele, Koloa/Poipu, Lihue, Kapaa, Princeville, and Hanalei. Also, Hanapepe, and Kilauea have some new cafés and bookstores that would be likely candidates, does anyone know if they do wi-fi yet?

I’ve never actually used any of these access points, so I can’t tell you the quality of the signal and the connection. If readers know of other places, let us know in a comment.