Trees of Kokee

One more post about last Saturday’s trip. Of course we saw trees up in Kokee, the forest with many native trees is one of the main attractions there. However, we ran across two interesting non-native trees.

In the early 1900’s wild cattle roamed the uplands and destroyed much of the native forest, causing erosion. The lack of forest and heavy erosion was threatening the water supply for the profitable sugar cane down below. In the 1930’s, one of the jobs of the CCC (Civilian Conservation Corps) camp established in Kokee was to replant the forest. They experimented with different trees that now grow around the meadow, mostly cedar, cypress, and redwood.

One of the redwood trees between the meadow and the road is perfect for climbing, so we climbed it, nearly 150 feet (50m) to the top. If you look closely, you can see me in this photo, just to the left of center:

They also planted an orchard of mainland fruit around the old camp, taking advantage of the cool weather at 4000 feet (1300 m) altitude to grow apples, pear, and plums in the tropics. Some of the plums have spread to the nearby forest and they are so sought after that you need a permit to pick them in season. But we found one of the old pear trees, still producing small hard pears. I tried one small one and it was edible but crunchy and not very sweet. We picked a few good ones off the ground and one or two off the tree hoping they’ll ripen at home.

Eo e Emalani i Alaka’i

I keep mentioning that we went to Kokee last Saturday, I just haven’t gotten around to writing about it until now. We went to see the annual Eo e Emalani i Alaka’i festival, commemorating Queen Emma’s trip to the Alaka’i swamp. That doesn’t sound like something to celebrate, but here’s the story:

In early 1871, when Queen Emma took a fancy to journey from her Lawa’i beach house up to the isolated reaches of Waimea Canyon and the misted bogs of the Alaka’i Swamp, she set off in a flurry of activity. An experienced guide was sought, provisions and horses were procured, and a path of fern logs was hastily laid through the wettest part of the swamp for the convenience of the Queen and her almost 100 traveling friends. Led by Kaluahi, the guide recommended by Eric Knudsen of Waimea, her party trekked all the way to the Kilohana viewpoint, with a vista stretching to Hanalei and Wainiha. She wanted to see for herself the spectacular views she had only heard about. […] When Queen Emma trekked up the mountain, members of her entourage paused at scenic vistas to compose new chants and songs.

Kauai’s mountain forest echoes with the sounds of Hawaiian music and traditional chants at this free annual festival, held the second Saturday in October, mist or shine. […] Queen Emma and her entourage enter the lovely Kanaloahuluhulu Meadow on horseback, accompanied by as many as thirteen hula halau from around the state who perform ancient chants and dances as gifts for their Queen.

This year there was perfect weather, and the meadow came alive with mele (songs, music) and hula. Usually, the meadow feels big, empty and often chilly, but we took advantage of the break in the hula to have our picnic in the shade on the other side, and it seemed like one big lawn party:

The hula itself was very good, this is the setting that I imagine it used to be performed in. The halau (troupes) chant as they walk in and out facing the dignitaries and all the commoners sit around to watch the performance. This year, there were a lot of children performing, so it felt less formal and more like a recital, with the people eager to show off their dances:

Our friends Katharina and C are dancing in the second picture.

Discoverer’s Day

Here in Hawaii, the US holiday of Columbus Day (the second Monday of October) is called Discoverer’s Day, to commemorate the landfalls of many peoples in Hawaii. After many waves of Polynesian migration, the British Captain James Cook was the first recorded westerner to sight the islands and land here (the actual date was January 20, 1778). He first came ashore and met the inhabitants at the mouth of the Waimea River on the west side of Kauai. Understandably, it is also a time of protest by the kanaka maoli, those of indigenous ancestry, who feel they have been disposessed by the westerners since then.

Coincidentally, we had stopped at the landing site last Saturday, on the way back from our day in Kokee. The plaque marking the spot has been partially toppled by waves, and the local beach-goers have adopted western vehicles:

The plaque reads:

To get there, or to find the most convenient public restrooms in Waimea town, take the first left after crossing the river as you arrive in town from the east. The restrooms are in Lucy Wright Park, which is also a reservable campground, and the plaque is on the beach beyond.

There is also a statue of Captain Cook in a little park in the center of Waimea town, but I didn’t get a picture of it. It is interesting to note that both Australia and New Zealand have preserved Cook’s landing sites in their respective countries as well.

Last Week’s Sunrise

It seems I forgot to post a sunrise picture last week, eventhough I took a beautiful picture of one on Tuesday, October 4th:

Waipoo Falls

On our way to Kokee Saturday, we had to pull off the road to look at Waipoo falls going strong from the recent rains. Waipoo literally means “head-water,” which is fitting because the waterfall is at the head of the Waimea Canyon and feeds what becomes the Waimea River below. The upper falls are about 100 feet (30 m) high, and the main falls about 400 feet (120m) high There is a relatively easy hike that leads to great views from the eroded ridge to the left of the falls, and then right to the top of the upper falls.

All summer, it had been less impressive because there was less rain. The water from Kokee Stream which feeds it is diverted into the ditches to irrigate the sugar cane, so this waterfall really suffers in low rain.