Discoverer’s Day

Here in Hawaii, the US holiday of Columbus Day (the second Monday of October) is called Discoverer’s Day, to commemorate the landfalls of many peoples in Hawaii. After many waves of Polynesian migration, the British Captain James Cook was the first recorded westerner to sight the islands and land here (the actual date was January 20, 1778). He first came ashore and met the inhabitants at the mouth of the Waimea River on the west side of Kauai. Understandably, it is also a time of protest by the kanaka maoli, those of indigenous ancestry, who feel they have been disposessed by the westerners since then.

Coincidentally, we had stopped at the landing site last Saturday, on the way back from our day in Kokee. The plaque marking the spot has been partially toppled by waves, and the local beach-goers have adopted western vehicles:

Dirty bronze plaque on a tipped over rock near two fishermans pickup trucks on the dirty black sand beach.

The plaque reads:

 
COOK LANDING SITE

This site has been designated a
REGISTERED NATIONAL
HISTORICAL LANDMARK

Under the provisions of the
Historic Sites Act of August 21, 1935
This site possesses exceptional value
in commemorating and illustrating
the history of the United States

US Department of the Interior
National Park Service

1963

Graffitti: Killer Dog (bis), [unreadable], Help

To get there, or to find the most convenient public restrooms in Waimea town, take the first left after crossing the river as you arrive in town from the east. The restrooms are in Lucy Wright Park, which is also a reservable campground, and the plaque is on the beach beyond.

There is also a statue of Captain Cook in a little park in the center of Waimea town, but I didn’t get a picture of it. It is interesting to note that both Australia and New Zealand have preserved Cook’s landing sites in their respective countries as well.

Last Week’s Sunrise

It seems I forgot to post a sunrise picture last week, eventhough I took a beautiful picture of one on Tuesday, October 4th:

Purple clouds glowing pink as the firey yellow sun appears on the horizon

Waipoo Falls

On our way to Kokee Saturday, we had to pull off the road to look at Waipoo falls going strong from the recent rains. Waipoo literally means “head-water,” which is fitting because the waterfall is at the head of the Waimea Canyon and feeds what becomes the Waimea River below. The upper falls are about 100 feet (30 m) high, and the main falls about 400 feet (120m) high There is a relatively easy hike that leads to great views from the eroded ridge to the left of the falls, and then right to the top of the upper falls.

Waterfall over the red rock of Waimea Canyon, with the green carpet of the Kokee forest above.

All summer, it had been less impressive because there was less rain. The water from Kokee Stream which feeds it is diverted into the ditches to irrigate the sugar cane, so this waterfall really suffers in low rain.

The Poinciana Saga

Last Wednesday was a very sad day because we had to cut down our beautiful Royal Poinciana tree. I didn’t write about it before, but this is how it was blooming all through June and July:

Royal Poinciana entirely covered in bright red-orange flowers

Close-up of intricate flowers and petal patterns.

After the flowers, the leaves started filling in with a beautiful emerald green color. But then, on August 5th, a branch fell down on our neighbor’s driveway, probably due to the weight of the new leaves because there wasn’t much wind that day.

A branch 1 foot in diameter perfectly blocking Joe

By the way, that’s our neighbor Joe and my wife Sonja, who is 6 months pregnant here. It cost us $120 for a tree maintenance guy to come and cut it up that day and haul it away, and I spent the afternoon cleaning up the neighbor’s yard.

Then we discovered why the branch was so weak. The entire heartwood of the tree was rotten, and that branch was only being held by the edge, painted black with pruning seal in the next photo. The rest of the tree was being held up by the outer layer of wood on 2/3 of the circumference.

Gaping wound 2 feet wide and 3 feet high where the trunk should be.

That’s when we knew the tree would have to be cut down. It is really a shame, because it now had a full crown of beautiful leaves, shaded the yard, and still seemed solid. I suppose that it grew stronger on the sides that were still holding. It didn’t even seem to move in any of the storms we had before we could get somebody to work on it. But we knew there would be more storms, and several branches were threatening the house, so it had to go.

It took us almost 2 months (and $1200!) to find someone with the time to do the work, arborists seem to be booked solid on this island. But he and his helper finally came last week, and took down the canopy on the first day and the trunk on the second day:

Beginning to cut down the outer branches.

Only the trunk and big branches left, and lots of small branches covering the yard.

Only the stump is left in a clean but sadly empty yard.

It was really sad to watch the beautiful tree come down, still green and strong. Sonja even cried a little and couldn’t watch. The yard seems empty now and the house is more visible, as are the neighbors. We hope it will start growing back from the good roots, and we will plant other trees in the yard, but we will miss you, beautiful poinciana tree.

4th Wailua Bridge

A while back, I promised to post pictures of other lost and forgotten structures around Kauai. Well it turns out there is a 4th bridge over the Wailua River, even more invisible than the 3rd bridge.

This one is located less than 300 feet (100m) upstream from the Wailua Falls (the twin falls you get to on a long and bumpy road from Lihue). Oddly, thousands of people view the falls in what looks like a pristine setting, and never suspect this bridge is closer to the falls than they are at the lookout. As far as I can tell, it actually used to be a railroad bridge for hauling sugar cane. On your way to the falls, you actually drive under the old track that goes to this bridge.

Rusted trestle with no bed crossing 20 feet over the stream, held up by mossy pillars

To be honest, I had trouble getting a picture of it myself, because it is so hidden in the trees. The first thing you see are two rows of cement columns that go down to the river, and then you see the old rusted trestle crossing in a single span. I wonder if anyone checks it anymore or if it will collapse and wash over the falls someday.

The Lihue plantation that farmed this area used to have run trains on several tracks around Lihue. I heard recently that they still have some engines in working order, so now I have more fun history to “track” down.

PS: I’ll stop with the Wailua bridges now, because there are actually one or two more cement bridges for cane roads crossing further upstream from here.